Depends on your carrier. Some carriers update OTA, some make you download files. For example, on Rogers in Canada we have to DL an update file from their web site and install using a PC.
Check with your carrier (unless someone here knows?).
I'm using a stock HTC Magic (Vodafone branded but unlocked) on O2 (UK). Last update was delivered OTA. I woke up in the morning and there was a update available notification in the notification bar. Selected it and it downloaded and installed in about 10 / 15 mins (it was a security update tho, over wireless).
Updates do tend to revert your desktop to the default apps etc, so make note of your setup before running the update
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