D
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I'll get the switch repaired when I can.
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Just a suggestion: don't delete it!I'll get the switch repaired when I can.
Question removed.
...and here I thought you were going to say that if it was a Windows PC, being unable to turn it on is a security feature.Just a suggestion: don't delete it!
I didn't see it in its original version, but I've deduced that your problem turned out to be the switch. The thing is, someone else may come along with the same symptoms you had, and learning that the switch needed to be replaced could be helpful for them.
Bwaaaaahhh!and here I thought you were going to say that if it was a Windows PC, being unable to turn it on is a security feature.
Electrical connection issue.
I keep a 2004 desktop because I love the ripped cd audio sound from the 7200 rpm hard drive, coupled with an audio enhancer only out on XP. (using Grado headphones).
My Lenovo Thinkpad Laptop and Nokia phone have completely uninvolving sound by comparison, so I miss it, though I listen to music less than I used to.
Developed a front switch issue, intermittent at first. I can't transport it to a previous good repairer without a car now and funds are low for a few weeks.
When it's working normally, and the mains override? switch at the back power socket is left on, it would only come to life when I depress the circular front switch with a back light (blinks slowly on Standby, lit when running).
Now when I switch on the mains switch at the back, the fan comes on and the light behind the large front power button fizzes silently. The hard drive doesn't spin. The button physically clicks in normally but never turns on the pc. (except occasionally at first).
I guess it's a soldering or motherboard issue. I can't get into the front plunger type switch mechanism between two panels, just the wires inside the case.
Any simple fix? Thanks for reading.
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Yes! Old and dusty!
I know I am, as is the inside of this pc
As is my 2004 HP running Kubuntu.I guess I missed that with the one I built in 2009, Still going strong running Manjaro.
Just a suggestion: don't delete it!
I didn't see it in its original version, but I've deduced that your problem turned out to be the switch. The thing is, someone else may come along with the same symptoms you had, and learning that the switch needed to be replaced could be helpful for them.
The whole front panel should separate from the frame. It's probably a single casting with indentations, etc.@rootabaga
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If I may I might ask your attention again to understand which end you meant, and the fan coming on when it didn't before - but another time.
I did think those panels would separate further with a screwdriver. I haven't looked for those capacitors yet.
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The whole front panel should separate from the frame. It's probably a single casting with indentations, etc.
The fan won't come on until the switch basically signals the "relay" to close and power the rest of the circuits, so fan, drives, etc. Since you said it was intermittent and slowly got worse that does suggest it's the switch and my fingers are crossed for that. The bypass test (shorting the pins on the MB) will answer that in short order.
The end I meant is the mother board end. When you trace the wires you should come to some connectors that will look something like this:
And in fact, looking at that picture, I suspect that the colors will be the same and the pair you want to trace is the green/white set (so you wouldn't have to pull the panel).
This is kind of like how the pins/posts will look on the mb:
So lift the connector off the mb just enough that you can expose the pins that connect to those green/white wires and short them. If it all fires up, you know you have to replace the switch. Cheap and easy.
Good luck with all of it, and stay healthy.