Hello. I have the tablet by Curtis, the Klu LT7033 and I have some questions about it. First and foremost, why won't it charge? I have used the charger for about 3 months and it worked fine. Now, it won't charge. Ill plug it in and it won't charge, like it normally should. If I sit there and wiggle it for 10 minutes, it might start to charge if I leave it in that exact position, without moving it. What can I do? Id really like to use it. Another question, why it won't charge via USB? like most android devices it should charge by usb. But it doesn't. It reckognizes I have it plugged in but it doesn't charge. So what can I do? I've tried resetting it, using different computers and power outlets, but no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, sorry if this is in the wrong section.
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Help Curtis Klu LT7033
- Thread starter poptart87
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- curtis klu lt7033
Dan L Smith
Lurker
I had the same problem with the charger jack, it would only charge (you can see the red led come on when you have a good connection) if you had the plug in a certain position. I'm a tech, so I took mine apart and found a bad solder joint on the charger jack to motherboard. I used solderwick to remove the cold solder joint and re-soldered the connections. Now it's fine. Most people won't be able to do thisa fix, maybe just return it for an exchange or refund?
Dan L Smith
Lurker
dan smith can you give me instructions on how to take the tablet apart to solder it?
First, you need a '000' (very tiny) philips head screw driver, to take the two small philips head screws out of the case on the side where the jacks are. Then it is just a matter of working a very thin bladed knife into the seam that runs around the whole case, just prying a very little bit in any one spot at a time. Work your way around the case gentely prying that seam open, the top of the case and the bottom just snap together/apart. Then, with a good magnifying glass, look at the solder connections around the charger jack. You may be lucky and see a crack in a solder joint which clearly needs resoldered, but often solder joints are just 'bad' from day one, they tend to look kind of 'crystalized', dull and not shiney at all. Get your small tipped solder iron (35 to 50 watt max) really hot, don't try to use it right away, wait until it is fully heated. You may get by with just touching the iron tip to the solder joints to remelt the solder back together, but watch the solder as it cools after you take the iron away. If it crystalizes when it cools, you will need to use smallest size 'solder-wick' to remove that solder and then solder it with fresh. Radio shack might still sell the solder-wick. The idea for it is to put the end of the wick over the solder to remove, and push your solder iron down on it, heating through the wick and melting the solder below it and the wick soaks up the old solder leaving a clean place for you to resolder. If you can't find solder-wick (try Ebay) you can make some. Just find a piece of microphone cable or RF cable, cut the outer insulation off, pull the center wire out, and stretch out and flatten the coax braid. Rub some soldering flux paste on and into the braid, and you have your own solder-wick. You will only use far less than an inch for each job but you will want your braid to be at least 4 or 5 inches long so you don't get burned holding it when heating it up to melt the solder under it. When you use it in the future, always cut off the end that has soaked up some solder, always start with a clean end piece. Always put a little bit more solder flux on the braid to help it 'wick' up the solder. Best solder to use is the Radio Shack small rolls (1 1/2 oz) with silver as an ingredient, and is .022" diameter. Biggest mistake people make when soldering is to not wait for the iron to fully heat up, and not being hot enough to melt the solder, they have to hold it against the work too long, and parts and foil connections get burned up. The same thing happens when the iron is not big enough for the job, for something like this, parts and connectors on a circuitboard, too small (15 to 20 watts) and the tip won't stay hot enough to melt the solder thru the solder-wick without having to hold it there too long, which burns things up. Odd, too small an iron tends to destroy more parts than one matched to the job. Of course, you also would not want to try to use a 100 watt iron here either. Beyond this, you're on your own. Hope this helps.
Good luck.