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Don't bother calibrating your battery

I know it seems crazy... but it works.

I've used it a few times now when the Battery Calibration app and Battery Reset in Recovery have failed.

I can't pretend to understand the science of it, which is explained later in the thread, it just works! :D
 
To be honest I thought I'd noticed a difference when calibrating with an app, but maybe I just wanted it to work so it was all in my head. I just had a quick search when I noticed gokhanmoral had taken auto calibration out of the siyah kernel for that reason. I guess he knows what he's doing so I probably won't waste my time with it in the future.
 
I saw the thread about a week ago, after last Friday's mammoth ROM flashing session with Revolution and Dlev Rom's on the same day.

I noticed I was getting weird battery readings and sudden drops inspite of always resetting battery stat's after flashing. The Battery Calibration app didn't help either.

However, this does the trick and is easy to do and no rooting required. :D
 
I may have to give it try tomorrow. The amount of things I've flashed my phone probably could do with it. Won't try at the moment as I doubt I could even count to 90 :D
 
I may have to give it try tomorrow. The amount of things I've flashed my phone probably could do with it. Won't try at the moment as I doubt I could even count to 90 :D

Ditto. Ie been abusing UOT Kitchen alot lately. Finally got a set up I like and the battery just dribbles away.
 
If you change the physical battery to a different one, does this procedure have to be repeated ie. the S2 can keep track of different stats? Or is it irrelevant after you calibrate it once?
 
Wow battery clinging onto 100% like its life depended on it. . . . . Sure there is some kinda pun there somewhere.

Alas the readings appear much more realistic. I couldn't believe how much power the os was pulling before. Display I can understand.
 
If anyone was asking:

"About the 96% battery charge it's a known Galaxy SII problem, which has never been solved.

Sometimes you charge to 100%, and sometimes 96% (hiden right after a 100% charge).
You must live actually with this if you want to continue the adventure with your SGSII "


as someone said on xda...
 
If you change the physical battery to a different one, does this procedure have to be repeated ie. the S2 can keep track of different stats? Or is it irrelevant after you calibrate it once?

As far as the physical battery is concerned, it doesn't matter.

The main thing is that you do it after flashing a new ROM or switching back to a CWM (nandroid) backup.

Here is the science behind it...

"Originally Posted by Entropy512 on xda

This is standard for Lithium-Ion batteries (of most chemistries - there are exceptions, but our device is not one of them.)

The standard charge cycle for a Li-Ion is as follows:
Constant current (aka current-limited) initially, until battery voltage reaches approximately 4.2 volts.
Once the battery hits 4.2 volts, it is constant-voltage (battery his held at 4.2 volts)
Charge termination is done by monitoring the charge current in the CV phase. Once the current drops to around C/10 (e.g. 165 mA for most GSIIs), the charger is shut off. I need to double-check this number.


As the original post hinted, and I have confirmed by reading kernel source - this advice is applicable to most HTC Android devices, and other devices (such as the Galaxy Tab 10.1) that have "coulomb counter" type fuel gauges. These measure the current in/out of the battery periodically and sum it up - Slowly, their estimate of state of charge will "drift", which is why they occasionally need to be recalibrated.

The Maxim fuel gauge IC used in first-gen GalaxyS devices needs no calibration, and in fact, is designed specifically to be "convergent" rather than "divergent" - i.e. if it is initially "uncalibrated", it will converge on a correct state of charge estimate after a few hours, regardless of initial conditions. See MAX17040, MAX17041 Compact, Low-Cost 1S/2S Fuel Gauges - Overview

The MAX17042 in the GSII (I9100 and I777, probably SPH-D710 also) is an improved version of the 17040. While it does, unlike its predecessors, have a current measurement function, it is not used right now (see kernel sources) - so it's functionally almost identical to the 17040 for us.

This fuel gauge assumes the battery is in a "relaxed" state initially - so ideally, if you want the best "calibration" - pull the battery for an hour or so, so that it is "relaxed". If this seems to long to you - overnight idle drain will be low enough that any State of Charge (SoC) estimates will converge, regardless of initial conditions.
"

[TIPS] The Best Way to Calibrate our S2' Battery ! [No root needed, Very accurate] - xda-developers

So, I hope that's all very clear to you now. :rolleyes:
 
was following that thread on xda but all i know is if i use battery calibration app after flashing things i lose 1-2% battery over night, if i dont i lose anywhere between 10-30%. So ill continue calibrating my way :)
 
was following that thread on xda but all i know is if i use battery calibration app after flashing things i lose 1-2% battery over night, if i dont i lose anywhere between 10-30%. So ill continue calibrating my way :)



The motto around here...Whatever works for you! :D
 
As far as the physical battery is concerned, it doesn't matter.

The main thing is that you do it after flashing a new ROM or switching back to a CWM (nandroid) backup.

Here is the science behind it...

"Originally Posted by Entropy512 on xda

This is standard for Lithium-Ion batteries (of most chemistries - there are exceptions, but our device is not one of them.)

The standard charge cycle for a Li-Ion is as follows:
Constant current (aka current-limited) initially, until battery voltage reaches approximately 4.2 volts.
Once the battery hits 4.2 volts, it is constant-voltage (battery his held at 4.2 volts)
Charge termination is done by monitoring the charge current in the CV phase. Once the current drops to around C/10 (e.g. 165 mA for most GSIIs), the charger is shut off. I need to double-check this number.


As the original post hinted, and I have confirmed by reading kernel source - this advice is applicable to most HTC Android devices, and other devices (such as the Galaxy Tab 10.1) that have "coulomb counter" type fuel gauges. These measure the current in/out of the battery periodically and sum it up - Slowly, their estimate of state of charge will "drift", which is why they occasionally need to be recalibrated.

The Maxim fuel gauge IC used in first-gen GalaxyS devices needs no calibration, and in fact, is designed specifically to be "convergent" rather than "divergent" - i.e. if it is initially "uncalibrated", it will converge on a correct state of charge estimate after a few hours, regardless of initial conditions. See MAX17040, MAX17041 Compact, Low-Cost 1S/2S Fuel Gauges - Overview

The MAX17042 in the GSII (I9100 and I777, probably SPH-D710 also) is an improved version of the 17040. While it does, unlike its predecessors, have a current measurement function, it is not used right now (see kernel sources) - so it's functionally almost identical to the 17040 for us.

This fuel gauge assumes the battery is in a "relaxed" state initially - so ideally, if you want the best "calibration" - pull the battery for an hour or so, so that it is "relaxed". If this seems to long to you - overnight idle drain will be low enough that any State of Charge (SoC) estimates will converge, regardless of initial conditions.
"

[TIPS] The Best Way to Calibrate our S2' Battery ! [No root needed, Very accurate] - xda-developers

So, I hope that's all very clear to you now. :rolleyes:


wow, steady on old boy. too many cups of tea today ....?? leave that clever talk to xda will ya.
 
wow, steady on old boy. too many cups of tea today ....?? leave that clever talk to xda will ya.

:D:D:D

Was on a mega caffeine high! :)

Funny you should say that about xda developers...

that's where I copied it from. :D

I noticed that the automatic battery calibration has been dropped from the Siyah kernel because it doesn't work.

So, this seems to be the way forward.
 
Will this thing works on my Samsung Galaxy S Advance? They said it's only for phone with MAX17042 drivers. What's my phone's driver and where can I check? Thanks.

I know I'm not in the right forum, but not many people is active in the S advance forum. So I hope u guys can help me out.
 
Will this thing works on my Samsung Galaxy S Advance? They said it's only for phone with MAX17042 drivers. What's my phone's driver and where can I check? Thanks.

I know I'm not in the right forum, but not many people is active in the S advance forum. So I hope u guys can help me out.

Not an expert on the Galaxy S Advance... but it can't do it any harm!
 
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