tbh, alot of reserch n google on your part along with just setting up your dev environment (in linux) and getting needs tools etc. And then just reading n messing with stuff to figure it out. There is no for all be all guide for all this.
For themes n cooking roms u can get by on windows with a vm or cgywin, but for real dev work you will need a full linux install and learn at the least the basics of using linux. Alot is done via cmdline, and any and all do all programs out are really useless n just hinder learning to do the shyt correctly.
I for one use the Android Kitchen to cook stock roms, but I have an understanding of how it does it n how to do it manually for the most part too.
I dont do dirty ports personally, I rather deal with source and compile it for the device, aka CM7/9 etc.
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