If you simply open a note and start writing, you are correct - it simply puts very large writing on the page.
However, you can zoom in and out of the page using the normal two finger wipe open/close action (like you use elsewhere to zoom in and out of a view). So if you zoom in fully first (ie make the page large), then write something, you can get quite a lot on.
Also, in the writing mode, use two fingers held at a fixed distance apart and wipe up/down to scroll up and down the page.
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