You use HTC Sense at the moment; it's the custom UI HTC add to their phones. It inlcudes the home screen design, several HTC apps and widgets.
You can get custom ROMs without Sense ('vanilla' roms), that just have the normal android UI. If you want a 2.3 ROM, then your only option is a vanilla ROM.
You can get 2.2 with or without Sense, as far as I know, but the one without sense is probably a bit more stable.
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