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New Budget Build
- Thread starter Mehta23
- Start date
My friend has bought some Kingston ram : no heatsink, but £35 and 8GB at 1600mhz.
He's also bought a Zalman Z11 case for £50 ( £20 less than my Storm Enforcer) and im so jealous. It's a really good looking case and it's cheaper too! And I bet the panels actually align too. And I really want it/want him to not get it
Is the CX Corsair builder series a good enough Psu
He's also bought a Zalman Z11 case for £50 ( £20 less than my Storm Enforcer) and im so jealous. It's a really good looking case and it's cheaper too! And I bet the panels actually align too. And I really want it/want him to not get it
Is the CX Corsair builder series a good enough Psu
How would one explain the difference between the usb ports on a case plugging into the motherboard in the middle (main board?) and into the ports in the back?
I ask because, even though I've explained a few times, I was sent a picture of the case as well as a video showing that the USB ports are on the top of the case.... Not the back.
:facepalm:
I ask because, even though I've explained a few times, I was sent a picture of the case as well as a video showing that the USB ports are on the top of the case.... Not the back.
:facepalm:
Heatsinks on RAM make handling them safer, but imho if RAM requires them to operate reliably then it's either poor design or poor settings.
Any Corsair PSU is a better choice than a no-name generic brand, provided the PSU provides sufficient power to begin with. At least you can be sure it will deliver what it advertises - too many cheap PSUs only deliver their rated amps when lightly loaded.
The onboard USB headers are intended to be connected to ports on the chassis, or used by internal devices. The rear, backplane-mounted, ports are for direct connection to external devices.
Yeah, I now that. But on his Zalman Z11 case, the front USB 3 ports don't connect the the internal USB 3 header....
I told him that either he had to route the cabling to the external ports on his motherboard, or get a cheap adapter that uses the internal header.
On both ends? The USB 3.0 header is (iirc, only USB 2.0 onboard here) a 20-pin block connector. The Z11 user manual shows both an eight-pin block connector and a USB Type A male connector, each terminated by the 20-pin one (see below)
Perhaps the case ports are standard Type A connections?
Btw, only the Z11 Plus/Plus HF1 support USB 3.0. The basic Z11 is USB 2.0 only.
Really? I watched a video on youtube about the Z11 Plus and he said that the usb 3 cables don't go into the usb 3 header....
Edit: I had a look at a manual online, not only is it hard to read ( good luck to my friend who won't be needing any help with that
) but it does look like the USB is for the internal header...
However
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRKKu78Yp9M at agbout 8 mins you can clearly see the USB 3 connectors.
Edit: I had a look at a manual online, not only is it hard to read ( good luck to my friend who won't be needing any help with that
) but it does look like the USB is for the internal header...However
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRKKu78Yp9M at agbout 8 mins you can clearly see the USB 3 connectors.
I can't fathom what Zalman were thinking of.
The user either sacrifices backplane ports in favour of the top ones, or buys an aftermarket adapter cable to use the header(s) that every USB 3.0-capable 'board will have?Would a £50 60gb SSD (Sandisk or Kingston) sound right for the OS (Win7) and maybe one or two games?
From the SSD thread and research. I'm thinking there are certain tiers of ssd... Drives within a tier offer little difference... Drives in different tiers may offer a slight difference.
Am I right ^_^
From the SSD thread and research. I'm thinking there are certain tiers of ssd... Drives within a tier offer little difference... Drives in different tiers may offer a slight difference.
Am I right ^_^
a message saying 'no usb on back, only top' is annoying me..
How many backplane USB 3.0 ports does the mainboard have? One (or perhaps two) will be needed for those bass-ackward top-mounted ones, but the remainder will still be available.
Only if it can be fitted into the budget. I'd advise configuring the system without, and then if money allows adding one as a bonus. A 60GB drive is pushing it anyway for anything other than the OS and applications, imho.
NYCHitman1
Gun for Hire
No idea. I would assume not since the program is for Windows, and the cmd line stuff is Windows based too.
Not really. All the programs I know of require Windows XP or later, probably due to NTFS support being required. If the installation folders can be copied to a Windows system then WiNtoBootic is probably the easiest solution.
n.b. If the original disk is no longer available then the product key is probably missing too, so activation will be problematic.
You can't "copy" an ISO once it's burned to DVD; you either need the raw .ISO file or to convert the new disc back to an .ISO file.
Oh, sorry... I forgot to mention that because he seems stuck doing it from his mac that I've decided to make the bootable flash drive from my win 7 pc.
He told me that whilst he has the dvd case with the key, the dvd isn't there.... So i guess we should be good to go?
Would the program you mentioned be good for converting my Windows disk to an iso?
Edit : I have both the installation files on my hdd and a dvd so i dont know whats easier to do - although i guess its all the same really
He told me that whilst he has the dvd case with the key, the dvd isn't there.... So i guess we should be good to go?
Would the program you mentioned be good for converting my Windows disk to an iso?
Edit : I have both the installation files on my hdd and a dvd so i dont know whats easier to do - although i guess its all the same really
It should work fine, yes. Just point it at the Win7 DVD and let it rip. It will create the bootable media directly, without the need for an .ISO
NYCHitman1
Gun for Hire
It automatically does all that for you.. (the program)