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just be sure you're watching minimum HD content on that large a TV. Because I can't fathom how horrible the Andy Griffith Show would look like on something that large. It was so awful on 65" of 4K set and I just replaced all the modern TVs with 2010-era Samsung and Vizio which do better with my majority standard def library.

I've never been into modern shows or anything that's likely to be in HD. I'm the kind who loves A-Team, Bonanza, '78 Battlestar Galactica, Knight Rider, Columbo, etc.
 
Yes, in your case it would not be correct to use such a TV. I even wonder from what distance you would need to watch it to not see the pixels. But I only watch new movies and shows, and mostly I try to buy these movies at a discount to watch them in better quality for less money.

I would love to watch a couple of movies on a TV like this. Be sure to write back with how it is!
 
also OLED displays with persistent black bars burn in unevenly over time, so eventually the outer parts of the screen you see in HD and up will be brighter than the middle with time.

With the older sets, even if you're like me and prefer the entire screen over bars, which, sorry, annoy me and look wrong, they still produce an excellent picture. many DVD players don't even require you messing with the aspec ratio anyway since many DVDs already fill the screen, so you're no seeing the noticeable distortion and nothing is being cropped to fit. It comes off looking just like HD since you're still either at native resolution or having resonable upscaling done by the CPU in the TV.

It's like this, a 1440x900 resolution looks HORRIFIC on a modern, curved 50 inch PC monitor designed for 4K. but on a monitor that only supports up to 1440x900, it looks as clean as the 4k resolution would look on the 4k monitor.

Another problem I have with modern sets is that someone decided that glossy, glare-prone reflective displays are the best thing since sliced bread, instead of the more glare-resistent matte displays that have better viewing angles, and on a non OLED, less backlight bleed.

Latest purchases:

DVDs and Blu-Rays of:
Non-stop, Pokemon 4-ever, Bonanza 34 episode collection, Ozzie and Harriet 20 episode collection, Galaxy Quest, and Oblivion.

another mechanical watch, a very '70s looking Timex with date indicator as well as second hand, was already running, didn't need repair or service. It's also water resistent, and at 5 dollars, I had little to lose testing that in my shower, and it was still water resistent.

A 2013 Dell Optiplex tower PC, 8 GB RAM, 500 GB HDD, and Windows 8 Pro. I ignored the HDD and put my gaming PC's 1TB Linux drive in it, hoping that the games I play will still play well enough with a more period-correct PC, as the other was just 'too new' and I am trying to keep my tech in the 2006-14 range while other bits are truly vintage, such as my tube radios, vintage watches, clocks, clock radios, stereo consoles, and so on. Kinda ironic how all the vintage computers are now Dell, like that's literally what shows up secondhand. Linux Mint booted perfectly, almost like nothing had changed, and ran fine with the 1440x900 monitor from 2008 I had paired it with. the PC cost 34 dollars, the monitor was given to me. Fallout 4 as well as Farming Simulator '17 should play fine, they being the two heaviest games on the system, since the former played quite ok on a much less specced system originally, albeit it had some framerate issues at 1080p, so the lesser resolution monitor should take the load off of whatever on-board GPU this thing has. Heck, I was able to progress quite far with less than 15 fps in 2017, even managing to kill Kellogg, and gain Strong as a follower.
 
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Speaking of: Was watching some of "How the west was won" and they put up the intneral screen like if you put like on a curve tv, or like a VR helmet on you and only see around you, and it really bothered my mother and myself.. I was like "what.... I thought this would fit to our screen."
 
I got the Harley out of the garage and rode it to the gas station and filled it up :

bbs.jpg
 
I still go to one gas station exclusively that still uses mechanical pumps. the kind with the roller numbers. I hate anything digital especially modern pumps that play video ads these days. You won't find me anywhere near those.

I just found and purchased the entire Farscape TV series on DVD, 30 bucks.

also a really vintage multimeter, a 'precision' i think that's the brand, 'vacuum tube voltmeter'. I haven't connected cables to it yet, but it does power on, and the meter's zero calibration works. 25 bucks. going to take time to find out how to connect cables as it had none, but it has no 'common' terminal, just ohms, plus/minus milliamp, plus minus AC terminals, and 'HF PROBE' whatever that is. I got it to have larger finer increments for ohms and volts, since my Micronta analog multimeter does increments in ohms in hundreds and tens, not singles, and volts in tens only. I need to oftentimes see smaller numbers and the larger one should allow that once I figure out how to use the blasted thing. I wasn't aware voltmeters used vacuum tubes or transistors. my Micronta only has resistors inside it and a few contacts.
 
The reason for a VTVM is its very high input impedance, needed to measure circuits that would be loaded by a standard VOM. The more modern equivalent is the FET VOM, although most DMM's have high impedance as well.
 
Interesting. so where is the black probe that normally goes to 'common' go to on his behemoth? because it has no labeled 'common' or 'ground' terminal. I just need it to do ohms and volts DC most of the time. I am assuming that connecting the red probe to 'ohms' and the black to '-ma' would allow me to test resistors, and connecting red to +ma and black to -ma would do volts, but being wrong means smoking the set.

I need to recharge my camera battery and upload a pic of this thing. I don't want to destroy it by hooking stuff up wrong.
 
I'd have to see it, but you should be able to find a manual online someplace.
Also the vintage radio and electronics forums may be helpful.
Is that an "HV" probe rather than HF? If so it's a high voltage probe and you probably won't be messing with that.
 
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Apparently anywhere on the case itself or the outer portion of where the 'hf probe' used to be counts as common. Tested a 9V battery and it shows 9.2v, and in a continuity test it goes to zero ohms when there's continuity. Figured it out. no, it specifically shows 'HF PROBE', even the mode selector on the bottom left has an entry for it. the probe used to be two wires with an outer ring that screws in, only the wire is long gone, and the outer ring works like a common. Controls are very dirty and that's to be expected, especially using 'zero center dc volts' mode. only got the crappy harbour freight cables to test it with and the 9v battery. Appears to work, and work well once you get the controls cleaned.
 
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Looks like there was a connection for a voltage probe where the red wire is but the connector is missing. You'd need to retrofit a new set of +/- probes.
You can kinda see it in the pic here if you zoom it-

Deluxe VTVM 98MCP Equipment Precision Apparatus Co. Pacotronics; |Radiomuseum.org

Deluxe VTVM 98MCP Equipment Precision Apparatus Co. Pacotronics; Brooklyn -, build 1956, 1 pictures, United States of America , schematics, tubes
www.radiomuseum.org www.radiomuseum.org
or more clearly in this video-
The MA connections are only for measuring current, the - is for all current ranges and the + are as marked.
The HF probe really is that, would be for high frequency AC although no idea what the max freq is.
 
that video was exactly the one I watched. I did ultimately figure out where I needed to connect/force-connect to check volts and ohms, so the purpose of purchasing it was justified. Mine sadly wasn't in a neat wooden box, it's more like equipment that is for a diagnostic cart, which was what I had in mind when picking it up. I have such a cart missing the guts so i'm creating a vintage diagnostic station to roll around the building testing things like charging systems, AC Drive systems, resistors, continuity tests and such.

I am far happier with vintage tools and test equipment over anything modern and a meter like this was exactly what I was looking for. Now to keep an eye open for a vintage oscilloscope to test the speed sensors in the RXVs
 
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Big project though,, on topic we are getting our floors renovated with what used to be a dark chocolate to a cherry color, now we are getting them all buffered out and everything underneath the roof, it will be all mocca hue for my bed room, and the guest room with my mother's room too.. It will cost us about a thousand dollars.
 
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