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Q's about my rig- Backups

My psu (Corsair TX750V2) makes a sort of ticking sound occasionally. I was told to ring up corsair, and the tech support guy explained how it might just be the sound of the fan slowing down, and I could hear it because my pc is next to me on my desk. (obviously I'll test it on a soft surface and also have a look at the fan whilst in use - like I was told to)

Before this call I sent an email to Amazon, who said they'd be happy to refund the psu, but as they no longer sell it 1st party, the best they could do was pay the shipping for a different psu... - good idea? Anything good enough around the
 
I'm thinking, because my gpu needs only 30A, something like a 550W OCZ might be better, quieter, and also I'll be saving over
 
Mehta23 said:
My psu (Corsair TX750V2) makes a sort of ticking sound occasionally... Thoughts?
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Can you see if there are any stray objects close to the fan blades? Yesterday I was tidying up the wiring in my dead Linux box, and when I switched it on, I heard this terrible sound...and realized that I had crammed the extra wiring right into my intake fan! :stupido2: Even a slight imbalance can make a fan tick or make unusual noises. You might want to try blasting them with some canned air to remove excess dust. If that doesn't fix it, a timely return may be in order, just in case.
 
Mehta23 said:
my gpu needs only 30A, something like a 550W OCZ might be better
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Only if it will provide that 30A to the card while the rest of the system is under load. If the GPU gets starved under such circumstances you'll get instability in the system.

Or is it worth getting something around that wattage (I think 45A) but with a higher efficiency?
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Higher efficiency is always good. Not only from an economic or 'green' standpoint; it also often ensures better regulation which equates to a cleaner supply and longer life.
 
I was told that 750W might actually be ok...especially if the 30A I need is JUST for the GPU.
An online calculator recommended 600W if I OC my CPU and GPU as well.

Of course, when I get the chance I'll have another look for anything blocking it, and I'l also test it on a soft surface.

Also, I was told that the neer TXV2 PSU's aren't that good...so if I DO decide to change it ,is there anything I should aim to get ?

EDIT: Ninja'd me there Slug :P

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/600w...2-90-eff-80-plus-gold-eps-12v-fan-atx-v23-psu Any good? I'm confused why it says it only does 18A.

Theres teh OCZ ZS and ZT series http://www.scan.co.uk/products/750w...lus-bronze-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-at

But the XFX looks the best to me http://www.scan.co.uk/products/750w...us-bronze-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx

And theres also teh Corsair GS http://www.scan.co.uk/products/800w...us-bronze-sli-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx
 
Mehta23 said:
I was told that 750W might actually be ok...especially if the 30A I need is JUST for the GPU.
An online calculator recommended 600W if I OC my CPU and GPU as well.

Of course, when I get the chance I'll have another look for anything blocking it, and I'l also test it on a soft surface.

Also, I was told that the neer TXV2 PSU's aren't that good...so if I DO decide to change it ,is there anything I should aim to get ?

EDIT: Ninja'd me there Slug :P

FSP PPA6002102 Aurum Gold 600W Power Supply (PSU) - Scan.co.uk Any good? I'm confused why it says it only does 18A.

Theres teh OCZ ZS and ZT series OCZ ZS Series 750W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply (PSU) - OCZ-ZS750W-UK - Scan.co.uk

But the XFX looks the best to me XFX Core Edition P1-750S-NLB9 750W Power Supply (PSU) XPS-750W-SEW - Scan.co.uk

And theres also teh Corsair GS Corsair CP-9020065-UK 2013 Edition GS 800W Power Supply (PSU) - Scan.co.uk
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Not knocking the other OEM's, but for me - it's Corsair or go home as far as PSU's are concerned.
 
Been told that downgrading the wattage might not be the best idea, but apparently the new Tx v2's aren't made by Seasonic anymore, and are worse than they were before :S

Thinking of getting a XFX PRO 750W instead. Don't really wanna risk it with OCZ, unless somewhere like ebuyer or Amazon, would be helpful if it were to get damaged

( I always think about this... PSus blows up, and I have to pay
 
Mehta23 said:
I was told that 750W might actually be ok...especially if the 30A I need is JUST for the GPU
Click to expand...

That's the point.... it isn't. You'd need 30A for the GPU alone, plus whatever the other components require.

I'm confused why it says it only does 18A
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It's a quad-rail design, so it supplies a maximum of 18A on each 12V rail.

The others you mention are all single-rail designs, which is my own preference. Features like "solid caps", "Overvoltage/Overcurrent/Short-Circuit protection" and "Active PFC (Power Factor Correction)" are good indicators of a well-designed PSU. The 'cleaner' and more stable the supply to the system the better, especially if it's going to be at all stressed.
 
I's the seller's responsibility - Check Sale of goods Act(s). They often try to say it's not their problem. I've RMA'd with Ebuyer , Pixmania & Aria in the past with no problems.
 
I YEAH! Finally. Only problem is that there are 3 XFX 750W's.
XFX Core Edition P1-750S-NLB9 750W Power Supply (PSU) XPS-750W-SEW - Scan.co.uk
XFX 750W XXX Semi Modular 80+ Bronze Single EasyRail Power Supply - P1-750X-XXB9 - Scan.co.uk
XFX XXX Edition 750w Silver 80+ Silver PSU Modular - P1-750B-UKB9 - Scan.co.uk

I think I'll go for the last one because, even though it has no awards, it's modular and has a higher efficiency. All of them have a 2 year RTB to Scan, but as I said, I think the manufacturer warranty can be increased to 5 when you register.

Edit: looking at the XFX website, they still sell all 3 of the above PSU's (I thought maybe one or two were old ones) and it seems like they do one non modular, and two semi modular...one silver efficiency, another bronze.

SO it seems like the XFX XXX 750 Silver modular is the best one to go for, especially seeing the price is lower than on other sites too (
 
Bought the XFX and it arrived yesterday. It seems like I confused OCZ and XFX I'm regards to how bad the Customer service is in the Uk/EU.
Considering I have a 2 year RTB to Scan, I'm hoping the remaining 3 years of manufacturer warranty won't be needed.
 
Davdi said:
I's the seller's responsibility - Check Sale of goods Act(s). They often try to say it's not their problem. I've RMA'd with Ebuyer , Pixmania & Aria in the past with no problems.
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I emailed scan and they said they wouldn't be able not do anything if something were to happen outside of their RTB period.
 
:-(

Hopefully those 3 years won't be too bad for me and I won't have to rma it.

I installed the psu today and instantly everything was much quieter!

Now I can hear the case fans spinning and the hard drive seems like it rumbles less often...

After a bit of use the 'hum' from the psu has turned into a bit of a whir... Although very quiet. I'll see how this is tomorrow and if it's still there i might try pushing the fan in (cos apparently it's badly lubricated)
 
Another post now!

Still haven't bought a backup drive yet :-(

Is it better to get a normal internal one with an enclosure as opposed to a usb 3 external one? I think it's roughly the same price (thinking either 1 or 2TB)

I've seen a Sea gate usb 3 for
 
Mehta23 said:
Is it better to get a normal internal one with an enclosure as opposed to a usb 3 external one? I think it's roughly the same price (thinking either 1 or 2TB)
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Yes it is, usually. There always can be exceptions, but as a rule the "internal" SATA drives that the OEM's put into their ready-made USB drive products often have terrible performance specs, and come with no guarantees of quality. It could drop dead in 90 days; not a plus when looking for backup media.

In contrast, when you buy your HDD and enclosure/interface separately, you can choose precisely the kind of HDD performance you want, and typically get more value by doing so. And with most SATA enclosures you can hot swap the HDDs, giving you even more flexibility. For instance you can use the same enclosure to hold one HDD for backups, and then when they're done you can switch to another for holding large multimedia files. Or you could swap in a SSD scratch drive. The possibilities are endless.

If I could get a guaranteed data center quality 7200RPM HDD for the same price as a "mystery meat" HDD (that's likely to be a 5400RPM or less "green" drive with a tiny cache) in my USB/IEEE-1394b external drive (oh, that's right, you can't get IEEE-1394 on factory-made USB drives!), I'd go for the better deal every time! Win-win.
 
I'm sold! Especially like the idea of swapping it out for a scratch drive... If only I needed one and could afford it. :-D

Only thing is that the enclosures are a bit expensive, but some are around
 
That's one thing, keeping the bare HDDs safe from damage.

Since I used to be a volume buyer, I have plenty of free stuff left over from shipping that make dandy storage cases for free. If you think creatively, you could probably could make your own out of "found" materials for free.

I've tried various devices that let you plug a 3.5" HDD into a 5.25" bay, but have been disappointed by the quality of most of them. It's still a great concept though.

P.S. You NEED more storage, whether you realize it yet or not. ;)
 
If you have an internal bay for it, then might as well install it as the second SATA drive.

I only use external drives for:

  • Laptops
  • Taking files with me
  • Moving files between machines
  • Temporary expanded storage
I have at least 2 internal storage (HDD or SSD) drives in each of my workstation PCs.
 
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