If you did that you'd no longer be able to use the usb port for data.
I believe the mod above was done on the iBolt dock.
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Verizon Rezound Window and Dash Vehicle Mount
- Thread starter andr01d
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- htc rezound
I believe the mod above was done on the iBolt dock.
Harry2
Extreme Android User
andr01d's circuit diagram of the dock shows that the data pins of both connectors are not used (NC).
So this car dock can't be used for USB data transmission (not like a desk dock)
But with shorted data pins on it's D2 connector this car dock can used for properly charging the phone
andr01d verifyed this.
Harry
So this car dock can't be used for USB data transmission (not like a desk dock)
But with shorted data pins on it's D2 connector this car dock can used for properly charging the phone
andr01d verifyed this.
Harry
andr01d
Android Enthusiast
Probably any of the 2.1A models will work fine, and I like Griffin type.
The 3.1A (total for 2 ports) Rocketfish is more expensive but may be ok if you're charging 2 devices; this item is found in the Best Buy car audio/GPS dept.
andr01d
Android Enthusiast
Hi andro1d, I bought 3 of these for multi vehicles and I took one apart pondering Harry’s solution to jump pin 2 & 3 on D2 connector. Very ingenious. However, those pins really tiny and close together. I don't think I have the skill to keep solder off the other pins and may introduce another a problem. Any tips on how to successfully accomplish would be greatly appreciated.
I'm also thinking about tossing the PCB assembly away opting to drill hole through bottom of cradle to feed the charger cord directly to phone. It’s not as convenient but at least no charging concerns and would still look better than the universal mounts in my opinion. I’ll return the other two mounts and wait until this model get’s fixed or something else better available.
Surely the designers of this product did not intend for trickle charging only. Plus seems like when I purchased mount and charger from Version they would have sold me higher amp charger if that’s required. They sold me their universal Verizon branded with optional USB port. It actually seems to charge slower than my Motorola and Rocket fish left over from Droid 1 days. Thanks, Bill
I'm also thinking about tossing the PCB assembly away opting to drill hole through bottom of cradle to feed the charger cord directly to phone. It’s not as convenient but at least no charging concerns and would still look better than the universal mounts in my opinion. I’ll return the other two mounts and wait until this model get’s fixed or something else better available.
Surely the designers of this product did not intend for trickle charging only. Plus seems like when I purchased mount and charger from Version they would have sold me higher amp charger if that’s required. They sold me their universal Verizon branded with optional USB port. It actually seems to charge slower than my Motorola and Rocket fish left over from Droid 1 days. Thanks, Bill
andr01d
Android Enthusiast
Hey Bill, with 3 docks you can setup a production line there!! 
Yeah the pins are kinda tiny/close, and we'll have to be cautious. I actually messed up a few times too... and then used a vacuum/desoldering pump to clean it and resolder. But it really shouldn't be too difficult (i only solder stuff once every few years and the last was in 2008). One thing to note is this PCB doesn't look like the high-temperature FR4 type... we'll have to work fast here so that the iron doesn't overheat or lift the copper/traces on this board. I adjusted my soldering iron to medium-high temperature, used a sharp tip, and also a fine/thin 21 ga. solder wire/spool (all lead free/RoHS stuff since my last few projects).
First thing to do is to use some masking tape to tape this small PCBA to a small block and then tape the entire block to the table so that they all will quit moving around If you have a board holder that will work too. I found a leftover stranded copper wire (the 16 ga common type). Then I picked just one strand from this bundle and tinned the last quarter inch of this strand. Then touched/soldered this strand to the tip/end of pin 3 of the DC2 connector. Then added a little more solder to it. Then soldered that strand to the tip/end of pin 2. From a side-view/perspective, we're basically just bridging over the "top" of the two pins of this DC2 connector (tip to tip, like an "overhead bridge").
When done, i trimmed/clipped the rest of that long wire/strand. Then used a meter to check that pins 2 and 3 aren't touching the other pins... and then spray/clean the leftover flux/mess.
Nah... don't drill it out or dump the board... may be difficult to plug the phone in later or in the dark/night... and i dunno if they will actually modify it in a future rev... so... maybe just warm up your soldering iron now
I'll have to solder/modify my second car dock after this too
Have fun there!! bye
~p
Yeah the pins are kinda tiny/close, and we'll have to be cautious. I actually messed up a few times too... and then used a vacuum/desoldering pump to clean it and resolder. But it really shouldn't be too difficult (i only solder stuff once every few years and the last was in 2008). One thing to note is this PCB doesn't look like the high-temperature FR4 type... we'll have to work fast here so that the iron doesn't overheat or lift the copper/traces on this board. I adjusted my soldering iron to medium-high temperature, used a sharp tip, and also a fine/thin 21 ga. solder wire/spool (all lead free/RoHS stuff since my last few projects).First thing to do is to use some masking tape to tape this small PCBA to a small block and then tape the entire block to the table so that they all will quit moving around
If you have a board holder that will work too. I found a leftover stranded copper wire (the 16 ga common type). Then I picked just one strand from this bundle and tinned the last quarter inch of this strand. Then touched/soldered this strand to the tip/end of pin 3 of the DC2 connector. Then added a little more solder to it. Then soldered that strand to the tip/end of pin 2. From a side-view/perspective, we're basically just bridging over the "top" of the two pins of this DC2 connector (tip to tip, like an "overhead bridge"). When done, i trimmed/clipped the rest of that long wire/strand. Then used a meter to check that pins 2 and 3 aren't touching the other pins... and then spray/clean the leftover flux/mess.
Nah... don't drill it out or dump the board... may be difficult to plug the phone in later or in the dark/night... and i dunno if they will actually modify it in a future rev... so... maybe just warm up your soldering iron now
I'll have to solder/modify my second car dock after this too
Have fun there!! bye
~p
NuSkoolTone
Newbie
andro1d, thanks for all your hard work! I have the ibolt dock and am deciding on what charger to use, and the pros/cons of jumping the pins.
In case no one's mentioned it or tried it, I used the dock today on battery and it went from fully charged to DEAD using the Navi for 40 minutes and leaving it in the dock for an hour. I was shocked when I came out and found the phone dead. Generally I can get it to last a full day!
So bottom line (For me) is: If you're not using a charger yet, take the phone out of the dock ASAP once you arrive at your destination or the battery's gonna be toast!
In case no one's mentioned it or tried it, I used the dock today on battery and it went from fully charged to DEAD using the Navi for 40 minutes and leaving it in the dock for an hour. I was shocked when I came out and found the phone dead. Generally I can get it to last a full day!
So bottom line (For me) is: If you're not using a charger yet, take the phone out of the dock ASAP once you arrive at your destination or the battery's gonna be toast!
Hey andr01d,
Thank you very much for sharing your technique. Definitely a lot more involved than a little dab of solder. I decided that connector way too tiny and pins way too close together. I’d certainly cause short to the other pins with no way to repair.
I decided to eliminate PCB altogether and drilled hole for power cord in cradle with excellent results. It looks great! In fact, I’m NOT going to return my other two dash mounts. I’ll drill them too and toss the PCB’s. It’s about as easy to feed power cord through the hole and connect phone as wiggle the phone around in cradle until it seats on D2 connecter. Actually easier as you can tilt the phone to see what your plugging into.
The only issue is phone won’t enter car dock mode automatically. This solved by addition of “Car Mode” app that goes with my current “Car Dock Home v3 app. The “Card Mode” app keeps phone in dock mode until ready to exit. I added to my lock screen. Car Dock Home v3 app rocks as supports widgets and allows many button on multiple screens.
Best of all - testing this morning on way to work with Google Maps, Pandora, Raindar, data enabled, & brightness 100% stepped out of car with phone fully charged from my old Motorola Droid charger rated 950 mA.
Thank you very much for sharing your technique. Definitely a lot more involved than a little dab of solder. I decided that connector way too tiny and pins way too close together. I’d certainly cause short to the other pins with no way to repair.
I decided to eliminate PCB altogether and drilled hole for power cord in cradle with excellent results. It looks great! In fact, I’m NOT going to return my other two dash mounts. I’ll drill them too and toss the PCB’s. It’s about as easy to feed power cord through the hole and connect phone as wiggle the phone around in cradle until it seats on D2 connecter. Actually easier as you can tilt the phone to see what your plugging into.
The only issue is phone won’t enter car dock mode automatically. This solved by addition of “Car Mode” app that goes with my current “Car Dock Home v3 app. The “Card Mode” app keeps phone in dock mode until ready to exit. I added to my lock screen. Car Dock Home v3 app rocks as supports widgets and allows many button on multiple screens.
Best of all - testing this morning on way to work with Google Maps, Pandora, Raindar, data enabled, & brightness 100% stepped out of car with phone fully charged from my old Motorola Droid charger rated 950 mA.
Race Director
Newbie
Hey BillD7, can you toss up a few pics?
andr01d
Android Enthusiast
it's hiding.... scroll further down the page into the next section and there is a "Manage Attachments" button and it'll grab the pix from your local harddrive
ok... whatever you do.... do not hit us with a string of 24 megapixel photos!! Gotta resize it down to 600 or 700 or 800 wide
Thanks
ok... whatever you do.... do not hit us with a string of 24 megapixel photos!!
Gotta resize it down to 600 or 700 or 800 wide Thanks
andr01d thanks for pic posting tips!
Here's pics of drilling hole for power cord to direct connect charger to phone. I removed the PCB with connectors. Rezound fits snug and easy to connect. I'm very please with results and will be modifying two more. Start with drill bit that fits snug in connector opening. Increment by 2 -3 sizes each pass until end of power cord passes freely. I used Dremel tool smooth edges and make a little oblong. It does not need to be perfect as you can't tell when phone in cradle. Very easy modification.
Here's pics of drilling hole for power cord to direct connect charger to phone. I removed the PCB with connectors. Rezound fits snug and easy to connect. I'm very please with results and will be modifying two more. Start with drill bit that fits snug in connector opening. Increment by 2 -3 sizes each pass until end of power cord passes freely. I used Dremel tool smooth edges and make a little oblong. It does not need to be perfect as you can't tell when phone in cradle. Very easy modification.
Attachments
Race Director
Newbie
I took the board out and ran some tests last night. Shorting the # 2 and 3 pin didn't make a big enough difference to overcome the margin of error in Battery Monitor widget. 
I went ahead and soldered them anyway and it didn't work out for me. My 950mA car charger will fully charge the phone in under an hour. 3% in 15 minuites is not a fix.
I like to windshield mount these things and drive a few different vehicles. I use a long arm suction cup mount from Scosche in my Denali and the Rezound mount will slide into that arm. The issue with drilling a hole is that I like to have the phone and mount resting on the dash to reduce vibrations from the weight at the end of the long arm mount.
It shouldn't be this hard....
I went ahead and soldered them anyway and it didn't work out for me. My 950mA car charger will fully charge the phone in under an hour. 3% in 15 minuites is not a fix. I like to windshield mount these things and drive a few different vehicles. I use a long arm suction cup mount from Scosche in my Denali and the Rezound mount will slide into that arm. The issue with drilling a hole is that I like to have the phone and mount resting on the dash to reduce vibrations from the weight at the end of the long arm mount.
It shouldn't be this hard....
andr01d
Android Enthusiast
@BillD7 - good job/instructions and also thanks for the great photos! That's a sweet Vette there!!
@Race Director.... plan B... jump/short across diode D1 or use both the bottom-side R4 and R5 pads for straight-thru power. This will be like the dock is not there. Optional: should also remove resistor R2 for safety and the blue LED will quit working after this. If we always have power from the car charger (will not unplug the charger or disconnect the power from the ignition whenever the phone is docked) then we don't have to remove R2... we don't want the LED to try to suck the power out of the phone but only to get the power from the charger side. But in general just remove R2 too if we jump/short the D1 diode so that we do not damage the phone. Also keep using the DC2 pins 2-3 jump/short too.
@Race Director.... plan B... jump/short across diode D1 or use both the bottom-side R4 and R5 pads for straight-thru power. This will be like the dock is not there. Optional: should also remove resistor R2 for safety and the blue LED will quit working after this. If we always have power from the car charger (will not unplug the charger or disconnect the power from the ignition whenever the phone is docked) then we don't have to remove R2... we don't want the LED to try to suck the power out of the phone but only to get the power from the charger side. But in general just remove R2 too if we jump/short the D1 diode so that we do not damage the phone. Also keep using the DC2 pins 2-3 jump/short too.
captainm27
Well-Known Member
Silly question here: Can I use paper clips to short the pins instead of soder?
superchaos
Android Enthusiast
Not really, there is no place for the paperclip to attach. The paperclip is two times the size of the pins needing to be bridged. I just did mine but didn't use any wire. I was able to connect the solder points with solder. I was using a very small tip 1/32 X 0.8MM
Why are you people trying to fix this piece of crap? There is a actual good product available. I don't have time to do a full review now but I received my resound dock from craigsdocks.com and hooked it up and it is 10 times better than this cheap piece of crap. I will be doing a full review but for now if you have not bought this imount or whatever POS from Verizon DO NOT BUY IT, AND IF YOU HAVE BOUGHT IT RETURN IT NOW. I returned mine after 5 hours, don't settle for this JUNK. DEMAND BETTER.
Interesting!
Please share the better mount product asap and then the review as you can.
I do think that the modifications here are cool, tip of the topper for the posts on that, but maybe they're not for everyone.
Please share the better mount product asap and then the review as you can.
I do think that the modifications here are cool, tip of the topper for the posts on that, but maybe they're not for everyone.
Race Director
Newbie
This thing? I'm not a fan of this design.
Clunky? You can be serious. It looks like the phone is floating in space compared to that giant cheap hunk of plastic and looks FAR less clunky when the phone is not in the dock. the craigsdock must have half the mass. Also the suction cup mount is a far better design the articulation is way better much more range of position.
NuSkoolTone
Newbie
This thing? I'm not a fan of this design.
+1. Christ that thing is ugly!
nynvolt
Android Enthusiast
I've had success with my old Motorola charge cable and the Verizon dock but can't find the voltage or amps listed on it.
I decided to jump the pins, just to a faster charge. Those suckers are tiny! Plus I no longer have decent equipment. The thing that people attempting this should be most worried about is getting the spring loaded clip back together lol.
Any way, the 5 volt 1 amp house charger isn't enough to charge it in the dock while using navigation. Even with the jump. I think those who bought these and are not able to use them should return them and complain. Since I've modified mine already I won't but I wasn't having a problem with it using the moto car charger and dock.
Thanks guys for the info about this!
I decided to jump the pins, just to a faster charge. Those suckers are tiny! Plus I no longer have decent equipment. The thing that people attempting this should be most worried about is getting the spring loaded clip back together lol.
Any way, the 5 volt 1 amp house charger isn't enough to charge it in the dock while using navigation. Even with the jump. I think those who bought these and are not able to use them should return them and complain. Since I've modified mine already I won't but I wasn't having a problem with it using the moto car charger and dock.
Thanks guys for the info about this!
Harry2
Extreme Android User
andr01d mentioned it already in his thread: "Weak" chargers will drop their 5V output voltage under full load. And this Schottky diode (D1) drops another 0.2V of the remaining voltage.
So with 2A (or more amperes) chargers there are better prospects for proper charging because the 5V is more steady by 1A.
Or the voltage has to be 5.5V on the dock's input ... my old Nokia car charger had this output voltage
@andr01d, it might be interesting to know about the output voltages under full load (no, better 1A load) of your several chargers
Harry
So with 2A (or more amperes) chargers there are better prospects for proper charging because the 5V is more steady by 1A.
Or the voltage has to be 5.5V on the dock's input ... my old Nokia car charger had this output voltage
@andr01d, it might be interesting to know about the output voltages under full load (no, better 1A load) of your several chargers
Harry