Yeah. I even downloaded their identification software. I can find quick specs. I probably haven't tried hard enough.
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Windows 10, Yay or Nay?
- Thread starter Guggy
- Start date
Yeah. I even downloaded their identification software. I can find quick specs. I probably haven't tried hard enough.
I think this is the one. Found it on Craigslist, about 2 miles from me. $75.
Intel Core i5-2500k
Or...........
This
Intel Core i5-2500k
Or...........
This
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Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
If your bios isn't crippled by the oem, option 1 is a sweet deal. If you can't tweak it to your desire, then option 2 is the way to go. You can always use the old unit for a superb file server (or whatever). Just plop some disks in it with a good nic and be happy.
Better yet, put a decent Intel dual nic in it and it can serve files, act as your (really secure) router, and many other things with Linux / BSD.
After downloading the Intel processor identification tool, I found out it is an Intel Core i5-2550k. A year younger! A bit faster.
Does not include a GPU. Hence the lower ranking. I have a graphics card and integrated graphics are turned off in BIOS, but I am not sure what to think. It has no where near the rave reviews of what I thought I was buying.
8.2 vs. 5.9.....
Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
After downloading the Intel processor identification tool, I found out it is an Intel Core i5-2550k. A year younger! A bit faster.
Does not include a GPU. Hence the lower ranking. I have a graphics card and integrated graphics are turned off in BIOS, but I am not sure what to think. It has no where near the rave reviews of what I thought I was buying.
8.2 vs. 5.9.....
The "k" means it's unlocked = cool. If you have a decent graphics card use that. The only problem I can see is that you may not have options in the bios to make much difference.
I can turn turbo on and that's about it.
Got any particular third-party BIOS updating tool you could recommend?
Edit: Intel offers this but I have no idea what it does:
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19763/BIOS-Implementation-Test-Suite-BITS-?product=65647
However, after finally bracing myself for the inevitable I really did some intense research. My mother board is a no-go. I think I figured out why they are going so cheap. It's a microBTX Form Factor. No upgrade will fit. ASUS has a complete line of compatible MOBO's in the microATX FF. The B stands for backwards.
It is more than I really need as is, but it will never improve.
More than you would ever need to know about Motherboard Form Factors
I'm going to go in the corner and sulk.
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Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
According to your previous link, Turbo speed for your chip is 3.8 GHz which is better than we thought - cool.I can turn turbo on and that's about it.
Sorry, but the only BIOS mods I've ever done were to insert an OEM Slic 2.1 table into a non OEM BIOS to activate Win7 without a bootloader. Even that is pretty dangerous in that if you make a tiny mistake that will render your computer a brick. IOW, I personally wouldn't chance it.
Me neither
I wouldn't sulk, as this is still pretty darn fast. Seems possible (according to your link) to OC your CPU to ~5 GHz, but it would cost you a decent MB and a case to put it all in. It really depends on how much money you want to spend for such a "relatively" small (not guaranteed) performance gain and if you actually NEED it. Would probably be more cost effective to max out your memory with the fastest supported RAM (if you haven't already), and live with 3.8 GHz. Unless you're gaming, I don't really think you would notice much in real world use. I applaud you for the work you have done to get the maximum performance out of somewhat dated hardware. Reminds me of unlocking the other 2 cores of my AMD dual core 555 that's in my current rig over 5 years ago.
As for gaming, I don't understand how people can justify spending $500+ for graphics cards to put in a PC when you can buy an entire game console for less. But that's jut me...
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Thanks for the help @Father Guido . You're right, of course. Realistically, 3.8 Ghz is more than I need. I have a tendency to expect more from less, as do many. For a total investment of $300, less the $75 I can sell the previous i5 for, this box can cook! It has also been a priceless learning experience.
HP Elite 8200 SFF
3.4-3.8 Ghz Intel© Core® i5-2550k
16 GB DDR3 Low Voltage RAM
275 Gb Crucial SSD
1Tb WD Blue HDD
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 Professional
Linux Mint 18 Cinnamon
Phoenix OS v1.1.0 SE
Edit: Just did a little benchmark that I couldn't find anywhere.
Windows--->Linux = 27 seconds.
That's with the insanely slow human interaction in Grub!
HP Elite 8200 SFF
3.4-3.8 Ghz Intel© Core® i5-2550k
16 GB DDR3 Low Voltage RAM
275 Gb Crucial SSD
1Tb WD Blue HDD
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 Professional
Linux Mint 18 Cinnamon
Phoenix OS v1.1.0 SE
Edit: Just did a little benchmark that I couldn't find anywhere.
Windows--->Linux = 27 seconds.
That's with the insanely slow human interaction in Grub!
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Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
You did good! I like that you chose the 1tb blue as your spinner. Many don't know these actually out perform the black model of the same size at about 2/3 the cost. I pick them up all the time when the price for nib hits $50. I put a pair of these in my new box as "working drives" for large file ops. Reading from 1 while writing to the other speeds things up considerably. I've used this strategy for decades. The finished product then gets moved to a (slower) 3tb model I use for storage/shared data/VM's. Those will then get backed up to the server once I get it reconfigured and back online. I'm using a pair of SSDs (one for each of the OS'es), so lightning fast loading each from a cold boot. No grub selection menu, I just pick the correct SSD to boot from within my bios options.
Biggest lessons learned (IMHO) is that you can save considerable money by using less than "cutting edge" hardware and making it perform nearly as good.
Biggest lessons learned (IMHO) is that you can save considerable money by using less than "cutting edge" hardware and making it perform nearly as good.
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jefboyardee
Extreme Android User
With the ‘Get Windows 10’ campaign finally over, Microsoft begins cleaning up Windows 7, 8.1
...I have that last one installed and all seems well on my Win7 32b SP1 HP.
For over a year, Microsoft’s “Get Windows 10” promotion was included as part of the updates served to Windows 7 and 8.1. The GWX.exe application didn’t consume much memory or cause outright problems, but it had a habit of “suggesting” you update that users often found annoying. As the year of free Windows 10 upgrades progressed, the number of people with an axe to grind grew. The app started acting more like malware, and the blowback was bad enough that Microsoft eventually walked back some of its changes.
Now, with the Windows 10 upgrade period officially over, Microsoft is removing the GWX.exe application altogether. A new, optional update (KB3184143) is available to “Remove software related to the Windows 10 free upgrade offer.” The KB article notes that it removes the Get Windows 10 application. The list of removed / updated files is as follows:
KB 3035583: Update installs Get Windows 10 app in Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 SP1
KB 3064683: Windows 8.1 OOBE modifications to reserve Windows 10
KB 3072318: Update for Windows 8.1 OOBE to upgrade to Windows 10
KB 3090045: Windows Update for reserved devices in Windows 8.1 or Windows 7 SP1
KB 3123862: Updated capabilities to upgrade Windows 8.1 and Windows 7
KB 3173040: Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 SP1 end of free upgrade offer notification
KB 3146449: Updated Internet Explorer 11 capabilities to upgrade Windows 8.1 and Windows 7
All of these previous updates are removed and replaced by KB3184143.
Now, with the Windows 10 upgrade period officially over, Microsoft is removing the GWX.exe application altogether. A new, optional update (KB3184143) is available to “Remove software related to the Windows 10 free upgrade offer.” The KB article notes that it removes the Get Windows 10 application. The list of removed / updated files is as follows:
KB 3035583: Update installs Get Windows 10 app in Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 SP1
KB 3064683: Windows 8.1 OOBE modifications to reserve Windows 10
KB 3072318: Update for Windows 8.1 OOBE to upgrade to Windows 10
KB 3090045: Windows Update for reserved devices in Windows 8.1 or Windows 7 SP1
KB 3123862: Updated capabilities to upgrade Windows 8.1 and Windows 7
KB 3173040: Windows 8.1 and Windows 7 SP1 end of free upgrade offer notification
KB 3146449: Updated Internet Explorer 11 capabilities to upgrade Windows 8.1 and Windows 7
All of these previous updates are removed and replaced by KB3184143.
...I have that last one installed and all seems well on my Win7 32b SP1 HP.
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jefboyardee
Extreme Android User
The Massive Windows 10 Update Failure
This auto-update approach harkens back to the America Online era of the 1980s and 1990s when the service dominated the pre-Internet era. I remember Microsoft, then promoting the MSN online service designed to compete with AOL, was in awe of the AOL update system.
You would boot the AOL system and it would update the complete program whether you wanted to or not. You would often end up with a whole new version and a completely different graphical user interface. The company was not shy about changing everything.
Microsoft always held this as an ideal method for updates so it would not have to deal with the outrageous complexity of a world of half-patched versions of its OS in the wild. To make things even more complex, this hodge-podge was running on an ecosystem of computers that were also all different.
You would boot the AOL system and it would update the complete program whether you wanted to or not. You would often end up with a whole new version and a completely different graphical user interface. The company was not shy about changing everything.
Microsoft always held this as an ideal method for updates so it would not have to deal with the outrageous complexity of a world of half-patched versions of its OS in the wild. To make things even more complex, this hodge-podge was running on an ecosystem of computers that were also all different.
Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
I get those emails every day and some of the deals are simply hard to pass up. I'm getting better at resisting tho
EDIT: If you're looking at the WD 1TB Black desktop drive, save a few $$ and go for the Blue. Same thing other than warranty. Comparison here. I've had fantastic experiences with the 1TB Blues, and they are my "go to" drives unless I need bigger (the larger capacity ones are only 5400rpm).
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jefboyardee
Extreme Android User
All the Ways You Can Still Get Windows 10 for Free
Take Advantage of the Assistive Technologies Offer
Provide a Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 Key
Reinstall Windows 10 if You’ve Already Upgraded (what I did, on separate partition)
Skip the Key and Ignore the Activation Warnings
Provide a Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 Key
Reinstall Windows 10 if You’ve Already Upgraded (what I did, on separate partition)
Skip the Key and Ignore the Activation Warnings
Father Guido
Android Enthusiast
Works with a bootloader from Windows 7 too if you don't want to actually pay for this "invasion." They don't really care "how" you're genuine, they just WANT you...
That's exactly what I was looking at. This is close to the regular cost of a Blue, which is also on sale for $49.99. Can't beat that. Whoever they put in charge of marketing deserves a raise.
You don't want to know what I would do in that situation.
Code:
sudo mkfs.ntfs -F /dev/sda3
^^^That too. 6 of one half a dozen of the other. I actually know more Linux commands than DOS at this point.
Top Tip: The mkfs -F works on Windows password locked drives as well. Just takes a little longer. But I was never here. These aren't the droids you're looking for.
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[emoji85] [emoji86] [emoji87]
A certain RadioShack doesn't like to display live models anymore, they now have those fake live screen stickers like you see on display phones in stores. I'm no longer welcome either.. [emoji23]
jefboyardee
Extreme Android User
To be specific, I 'upgraded' a running Windows7 HP 32b into Windows10 H 32b, backed it up, loaded that onto the separate partition and reloaded 7 from whence it came. Both work fine (except one of them is Windows10) and both are activated.
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