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Rant Thread - What really grinds your gears?

...because, according to Sprint today, the address on my Sprint account is slightly different than that which my credit card has.
 
Street ST St. or just plain nothing, which technically it's supposed to be except half the computers in commerce insist there must be a suffix of some sort.
 
PetSmart. OMG!
The online place where I get my, ummm, snake food has been out of stock for a while now. I've been getting them at the local pet shop for a reasonable price ($3.00 a piece) but their freezer broke so they don't have any. My only other choice was PetSmart...at $8.50 a piece after a 15% off coupon. That's just outrageous. There oughta be a law. :mad:
 
Why doesn't United Airlines support androids on their Inflight entertainment?

for the same reason they seem to be unable to make all of their scheduled flights.

I have two friends living in Atlanta, GA area... both of them business travelers, they spend more time in the terminals waiting for the next flight to replace the one that can't go, than they do hours in the air.
 
So apparently when when I work my A$$ Off at work for my boss, working extra hours to create forms for my boss, I am a good employee and a hard worker, but God forbid if there are any Typos or Slight Mistakes that she notices, I am a Complete Embarrassment to my Boss, and Must Apologize to her and the Management for my Stupidly!

WTF!

{sorry for my rant...just had to get that off my chest}
 
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That will teach you for working!

I've been on general strike for a year and a half... I'll think about doing something more than minimums when I get a pay raise.
 
just had to get that off my chest

So wait, your boss was on your chest? Just what do you do for a living?
Jawdrop.png
 
Those Sentras were something else.. An '88, The only 4cylinder vehicle to stay with my baby LTD police car off the line back in the day it lost when I hit 3dr gear. Now I'm running a 20 yr old Civic! Runs damn good.
My rant? Can't find where my coolant is disappearing.. [emoji38]
Make sure it's not leaking into your oil. Had to replace the engine in my Grand Prix once because of a cheap intake gasket.
 
Make sure it's not leaking into your oil. Had to replace the engine in my Grand Prix once because of a cheap intake gasket.
I checked repeatedly.. No oil in water, no water in oil, pressure checked and everything. It's gotta be something strange.. Doesn't disappear when cold, doesn't disappear when running temp, seems to be leaking at a specific temp range I haven't figured out yet. I pour coolant when cold, it stays no problem. Run it & let it cool down, missing coolant. I'm very mechanically inclined but it has kicked my arse and a few other certified mechanics at shops. Wondering if it may be a head gasket leak that only happens at specific temp ranges but I'd think I'd have some sort of traces in my oil. Of course most of what I've worked on in my lifetime has been domestic vehicles and this Honda is definitely a completely different design. [emoji13]
 
Maybe his car needs one.

Did he get under the car and check?
Yes, it has an overflow that works but it won't pull coolant back in.. just air for some reason. That tells me there is a leak somewhere and I'm clueless. I will say that I had the problem before I changed the radiator and it still persists, leaving me confused. ..Still scratching my head, but I appreciate the ideas and hope it gets figured out before it becomes a critical scenario. [emoji16] Next I'm gonna pull an new trick and strap a ziplock bag on my AC drain to see if it might be dripping coolant from the heater core.
 
Do cars still have an overflow for coolant?

All liquid cooled cars have to them, at least some means of allowing thermal expansion. Coolant gets hot - it expands. Reservoirs also serve as a way to purge air from the system, if engine ideally designed for it. Otherwise you have bleed valves on water jacket and other various locations where air pockets get trapped. Even home heating/plumbing systems have expansion devices installed.

Some cars have a regular plastic non-pressurized tank that just allows the system to purge air, expand when hot and, if a leak in system occurs, is able take a little extra back in.

Some have a remote pressurized vessel that acts as an extension of the cooling system where it's a fill/purge/bypass/relief all in one unit with a pressure cap on top.

If you're getting air in your system, few possibilities.

-Head gasket breach into a coolant passage

-Broken/cracked feeder tube to reservoir

-Bad radiator cap (COMMONLY overlooked)

-Breach anywhere in the cooling system, but 99% of time there is visible leaks, somewhere. Other 1% is steam escaping in a high spot on cooling system.

If heater core is leaking you'll see it on the ground. Unless rubber spout under vehicle is plugged, you'll see it on your passenger floor soon enough ;)
 
I'd also think head gasket, but if the leak is that apparent, there should be traces of coolant somewhere. Possibly on underside of hood?

Bad Radiator cap - forgot that one.

Also did you flush radiators before installing? Overflow could just be blocked with crud or bugs.
 
@bcrichster

This may depend on the car that you have... There is a possibility that you have a HUGE air pocket somewhere in your system. Way to solve this would be to perform a running fill/air purge with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Also make ABSOLUTELY sure that your radiator cap and thermostat are 100% functional - if unsure, just replace them anyway. They're $10-$20 each. If you can, get a radiator cap with a red manual vent lever on top. The kit above is the best way to get rid of all of the air pockets in teh system, unless you have mechanical air bleeders on your engine (again, depends on your car, I dunno what u drive)

Another way to check for air pocket is to check (when engine is up to operating temp), the difference in temp between upper and lower radiator hoses, if safe to do so lol... If you have a hot upper hose and cold lower hose, you may have big air pocket in radiator, or it may be clogged (but you say it was replaced?). Big air pocket will allow expansion within the system and may not be able to force radiator cap open to drink from the reservoir. A car can run for quite some time with this condition, but some symptoms won't be noticeable (like short instances of cold air while heat is on, temp gauge fluttering, if u even have one). If lower hose isn't constantly feeding the water pump, it will only circulate when the upper half of the engine boils it through, but then air still remains. Rinse. Lather. Repeat. So, constant hot lower hose=proper circulation. NOT intermittently.

Also check upper hose to see if you have hot water or hot air running through it, takes a special hand haha, I'm sure you have it. This is where Lev-R-Vent radiator caps come in handy, just lift handle to purge air out. May have to do this a few times to get it all, unless you really do have a way for air to get in, like bad head gasket or pinhole in hose, etc.

But seriously. Get the kit if you do your own car work, it's the best method. My guess is the system wasn't filled correctly. Air pockets are hard to get out, and sometimes it does involve jacking the passenger side up to help low lying air pockets find their way upwards :)

Hope that helps, or at least bores some of you :)
 
@bcrichster

This may depend on the car that you have... There is a possibility that you have a HUGE air pocket somewhere in your system. Way to solve this would be to perform a running fill/air purge with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Also make ABSOLUTELY sure that your radiator cap and thermostat are 100% functional - if unsure, just replace them anyway. They're $10-$20 each. If you can, get a radiator cap with a red manual vent lever on top. The kit above is the best way to get rid of all of the air pockets in teh system, unless you have mechanical air bleeders on your engine (again, depends on your car, I dunno what u drive)

Another way to check for air pocket is to check (when engine is up to operating temp), the difference in temp between upper and lower radiator hoses, if safe to do so lol... If you have a hot upper hose and cold lower hose, you may have big air pocket in radiator, or it may be clogged (but you say it was replaced?). Big air pocket will allow expansion within the system and may not be able to force radiator cap open to drink from the reservoir. A car can run for quite some time with this condition, but some symptoms won't be noticeable (like short instances of cold air while heat is on, temp gauge fluttering, if u even have one). If lower hose isn't constantly feeding the water pump, it will only circulate when the upper half of the engine boils it through, but then air still remains. Rinse. Lather. Repeat. So, constant hot lower hose=proper circulation. NOT intermittently.

Also check upper hose to see if you have hot water or hot air running through it, takes a special hand haha, I'm sure you have it. This is where Lev-R-Vent radiator caps come in handy, just lift handle to purge air out. May have to do this a few times to get it all, unless you really do have a way for air to get in, like bad head gasket or pinhole in hose, etc.

But seriously. Get the kit if you do your own car work, it's the best method. My guess is the system wasn't filled correctly. Air pockets are hard to get out, and sometimes it does involve jacking the passenger side up to help low lying air pockets find their way upwards :)

Hope that helps, or at least bores some of you :)
'96 Honda Civic. That actually sounds like the best possibly reasonable explanation I've heard so far and Ty- for the suggestion. I'll be looking into that, the jacking up passenger side was a surprise yes, it's been really strange, probably explains the burbling I hear sometimes & sudden temp changes I read the system with a BT ODB2 unit($15) & TorquePro.apk. New radiator and cap included in the change outs. Ty- again, bro!
 
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